When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.
The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.
“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.
In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.
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